I have just finished my second trip to Sri Lanka, 30(!) years after the first one. In addition to some "memory refreshments" at the WHS of Galle and Anuradhapura, I mostly went to pick up my last remaining WHS here (Sinharaja) and to get to the North of the island, which had been off-limits during my previous trip. I also visited places from the list of potential future nominations (feedback on those will come in Sunday's blog post).
Overall, I enjoyed my trip, without it ever getting to a "Wow"-moment. I don't think I'll go there for a third time. The overall feel is sort of "backward", like they can't disentangle themselves from the British colonial period. A long Civil War and recent natural disasters also did not help of course and the economic situation is dire.
TransportI planned to do as much as possible by public transport, but it did not work out fully. The main issue is the current disruptions at the (inland) train network, caused by the November cyclone. Repair works will go on until at least end of March 2026.
The trains and buses that I managed to use were frequent and easy to catch. Comfort is lacking – that "backward" feel again, as they are continuously patching things up instead of investing in something more suitable to 2026. The ferry to Delft Island was particularly appalling.
So I had to resort to the car with driver option a few times. Although popular in general among tourists in Sri Lanka, this is a seriously expensive option for a solo traveller at 70-100 EUR a day all-in. The drivers are easy to book online. Jaffna – Colombo logistically is tough, you may want to check out
these charter flights that run on Monday and Friday only (and are cheaper than hiring a car, unfortunately, I only found out about them later).
Accommodation
I stayed in mid-budget places to keep the overall costs down while still having restful nights without being bothered by bugs or worse. I paid 36 EUR on average (ranging from 15-51 EUR a night). What you'll get for that is family-run guesthouses with modernized rooms. All had good beds, airco, wifi (except for 1), hot water in the bathroom. Some had breakfast included. I searched for 8+ rated lodgings on Booking.com and then scrutinized the reviews for cleanliness. I would recommend every single one of them (names are listed below).
Itinerary
D1: Late evening arrival with Emirates. ON Negombo (Optimum Residencies: free airport transfer and great breakfast)
D2: Minibus to Colombo (50mins), Train to Beruwala ATWHS, bus to Galle. ON Galle (The Entrance Galle: excellent location inside the fort but on a quiet side street).
D3: Revisit Galle WHS. Check out Painted Monasteries ATWHS Kathaluwa Poorvarama Maha Viharaya by Uber en bus (35mins). ON Galle.
D4: Driver to Deniyaya (4h). Afternoon around the lodge + night walk. ON Deniyaya (Rainforest Mount Lodge: choose the deluxe room, great balcony, good breakfast, close to park entrance).
D5: Morning visit to Sinharaja WHS. Driver pick-up to go to the eastern suburbs of Colombo (4h). ON Malabe (Yamu Lanka Inn: stop-over place close to the express way, European-run, too remote to do anything from there but food can be ordered via UberEats).
D6: Drive to Anuradhapura (4.5h). Afternoon revisit to Anuradhapura WHS on a bike. ON Anuradhapura (Sapumal Lodge: ultraclean, free bike rental and great coffee shop across the street).
D7: Visit to TWHS of Ritigala (Meditation Monasteries) by taxi. ON Anuradhapura.
D8: Bus to Jaffna (4h). Afternoon exploration of Jaffna. ON Jaffna (Jaffna City Palace Hotel: shiny new hotel)
D9: Full Day tour to Delft Island and Nainativu Island. ATWHS of Oratory Churches on Delft. ON Jaffna
D10: Driver to Colombo (9h). ON Colombo (Granny's House: boutiquey in a nice area close to Bawa's Residence and National Museum)
D11: Visit ATWHS Tropical Modernism sites in Colombo and National Museum. Late evening flight home. ON on the plane.